A cage-structured ensemble adorned with beetle wings and fireflies, a blue sheath with burnt pleats, and a fluid tulle cape embroidered with a sleeping infant among the constellations—fashion isn’t just about the outfits; it’s a story that keeps reinventing itself. Shimai Jayachandra’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, ‘Daughters of Stardust,’ blends Kerala’s sacred rituals with cosmic mythology and a rebellious spirit. Featuring innovative silhouettes and textures, it celebrates women’s resilience and fearless nature.
In a tête-à-tête with the eponymous designer, Shimai Jayachandra gives us a lowdown on everything, from Vogue magazine’s influence to her passion for travel. Excerpts from the interview:
The collection is inspired by my grandmother’s matriarchal resilience and the rituals she performed in the sacred groves of my hometown, Thiruvananthapuram. The rituals embody the essence of nature worship and the duality of women as nurturers and warriors. In ‘Daughters of Stardust,’ every stitch honours women who “break boundaries”. The steam-bent shoulder horn signifies her inner strength, while the crescent hat represents her spiritual essence. We merge textures and depth, elevating couture through ancestral wisdom and artisan collaboration.
Fashion is a multifaceted art that transforms memories into material, creating a connection to something greater. Growing up in the lush landscapes of Southern Kerala, I became one with nature. Witnessing banyan roots envelop temple walls taught me the beauty of juxtaposition, a principle that resonates in the textiles we create. Later, influenced by the striking visuals of Steven Meisel and the narratives of Grace Coddington in Vogue, I began to understand the power of fashion through storytelling. But most significantly, my travels to 33 cities have enriched my understanding of diverse cultures, fashion, art and craftsmanship, enabling me to craft global narratives into my designs.
Our approach merges global perspectives with India’s handwoven textile tradition, focusing on sustainability by using over 99 per cent natural materials, with tulle as the only exception. ‘Daughters of Stardust’ highlights our design philosophy of futuristic aesthetics, featuring sculptural silhouettes and intricate detailing, all crafted from handwoven natural fabrics that celebrate artistry.
We breathe new life into ancestral techniques within a contemporary context. For instance, the pleated black silk gown features sculptural layers made from 56 metres of handwoven Kanchipuram silk that serves as a canvas for textural experimentation, hand-pleated to reflect the allure of a black hole. Our artisans embroidered galaxies on a cape using beetle-wing shards collected after the monsoon, reviving a nearly lost technique. Each artisan’s frame is a site for innovation, merging heritage with hypermodernity.
My design centres on ‘luxury with intention’ through innovations like detachable sleeves and convertible silhouettes. A sheath transforms into a cocktail look with unclipped winged sleeves. Authentic luxury is about resilience, not fragility. I aim to redefine couture as wearable and cherished, creating heirloom-quality pieces that celebrate craftsmanship and real-life moments.
At the vanguard of contemporary Indian couture, we merge unique concepts with India’s exceptional artisanal heritage. By collaborating with museum curators, wearable tech innovators, and biodesign labs, we foresee possibilities beyond traditional methods for our future collections. This is the direction we’re heading in now, aiming to elevate couture by combining handloom textiles with AI, where ethics elevate artistry.
