This indigenous handwoven textile from the Nilgiri mountains is about to become a collector's item

In the high grasslands of the Nilgiris mountains, the elusive Toda tribe —an indigenous Dravidian community—is a rare sight. Once co-existing with other ethnic groups long before colonisation, the Toda population now numbers just 1,700, all residing in the Nilgiris. Pastoral by nature, their economy revolves around dairy and worshipping cattle. The Todas’ distinctive barrel-vaulted dairy temples exist within hamlets, or munds, situated near the endemic Shola grasslands that serve as grazing grounds for their buffalo herds.

With pastoralism forming one pillar of Toda life, craftsmanship is the other. For centuries, Toda women have passed down the art of intricate embroidery, a distinctive legacy of their community. Inspired by nature and typically woven onto coarse cotton, their signature black-and-red embroidery showcases exceptional skill and attention to detail. The motifs reflect the Shola forests they inhabit, with older motifs including honeycombs, braided rattan cane, butterflies, orchids, and the sun, now joined by newer patterns. The geometric precision of their thread counting technique gives the embroidery its unique reversibility feature, making it beautiful from both sides and indicating the remarkable dexterity behind the art.

The most authentic expression of Toda artistry today is the Puthkuzhy, a cloak-like traditional garment, still worn exclusively by the clan and not available for purchase. “It remains a ceremonial garment of deep significance, especially during key life rituals and funerals, worn by both men and women,” says Ramya Reddy, founder of Coonoor&Co, a lifestyle platform promoting slow, mindful living inspired by the philosophies of the mountains.

A decade-long collaborator with the Todas and author of Soul of the Nilgiris, Reddy has witnessed the painstaking work behind the ethnic group’s embroidery techniques used on the handcrafted Indian shawl. "The women count the warp and weft threads by hand, using only darning needles and thread. It's remarkable to see such precision, done without any frame or aid, seeming almost instinctive. Few get to observe this, especially when they’re working on grander tapestries, which are true labours of love, taking days to complete,” she explains. For these women, this is more than a life skill. It's a sacred ritual that strengthens their communal bonds.

Thanks to dedicated activists, the craft reached a milestone with a GI tag status in 2012 —a recognition of its geographical and regional significance, now becoming both a cultural cornerstone and a crucial source of livelihood.

A new project helmed by Coonoor&Co plays a pivotal role in empowering these artisans and giving the craft a platform where it will finally find a channel of exposure with the mainland. Reddy explains, "During Covid, the Toda women and I decided to elevate their craft, recognizing its potential beyond tradition. Given the complexity of the embroidery, we experimented with different base fabrics and threads to create pieces that would resonate with the discerning eye. This is handmade luxury in its truest form.” Thread counting remains the foundation of the work, and they were fortunate to partner with weavers who created custom fabrics. Today, Coonoor&Co collaborates with 25 Toda artisans, using materials like merino-cotton blends to fine linens, while preserving the traditional Toda cotton. From scarves to shawls, home decor and accessories, the project has introduced new fabrics and designs, making the craft more utilitarian for a global audience.

For craft connoisseurs, experiencing the Todas’ work firsthand will now be possible through a collaboration between Coonoor&Co and Chennai-based art and antiques studio Heritage Blend, which will exhibit these exquisite pieces ranging from overlays to a rare handcrafted Indian shawl that carries the hallmarks of the artisanship in November this year. “Heritage Blend's philosophy aligns closely with ours,” says Reddy. “This showcase offers a wonderful platform to display the work, engage with artisans directly, and share the stories and evolution of this rare embroidery. We are fortunate for this thoughtful and sensitive partnership."

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