Drama, decadence and dreamlike glitz and glamour… season after season, India Couture Week unfurls a visual treat in the truest sense. And as we are experiencing a long-awaited post pandemic renaissance, the series of bridal looks that punctuated the runways this year came through with the haute appeal we need for 2022. From Tarun Tahiliani’s ‘The Painterly Dream’ show that reinforced nostalgic workmanship to Rahul Mishra’s 'Tree of Life' outing that stirred imaginations, we were taken into high-octane fairy tales told through lehengas, gowns and saris.
Here is a recap of the standout trends that have emerged throughout FDCI India Couture Week 2022.
The trend: Jackets over saris
Capes to boleros, outwear teamed with classical pieces is a stylish and practical statement. For years, brides have been embracing wedding-appropriate jackets not only when the temperatures drop, but also to enhance their ensemble year-round. Couture week’s striking sari looks also had one thing in common—a complementing jacket. Tahiliani presented matching cover-ups—some cropped, some long—doused in the same embroidery along with his six-yard staples and concept drapes. Mishra continued his love affair with romantic florals rendered on sheer long layers. Valaya’s gilet-style jackets got a sequinned update, making each a standalone head-turner by itself.
The trend: Sexy blouse
Good news for the bride who doesn’t mind stealing the spotlight with a risqué look, designers are also in. From the corset-esque blouses and tops with plunging necklines paired with lehengas at Tarun Tahiliani’s show, to Rahul Mishra’s bralettes and back-open numbers, sexy blouses were a mainstay at FDCI India Couture Week 2022. Varun Bahl, too, presented his take on the sensual blouse, be it the strappy number seen on his show-stopper Rashmika Mandanna or the sheer ones.
The trend: Bridal red
Is it even India Couture Week if there isn’t a multitude of bridal wear pieces in red and its many versions? We think not. Tarun Tahiliani’s bridal lehengas, saris and even kurta sets swayed to the timelessness of crimsons, oranges and maroons. Red was a dominant palette in JJ Valaya’s collection ‘Alma’, which takes inspiration from Spain.
The trend: Heritage craftsmanship
Leave it to our couturiers to remind us of the everlasting appeal of Indian craftsmanship techniques. Mishra offered his drapes and lehengas alongside some handpicked pieces from the Paris Haute Couture collection. By the designer’s own admission, his “festive couture” is based on artisanal heritage crafts. Think resham work paired with maximalist dimensional embroidery. As with his other collections, Tahiliani’s pieces were global in flair and rooted in crafts. The seamless magic of the finest surface ornamentation techniques such as the chikankari, pichwai and kashida formed the strong pillars for this collection. Valaya, who celebrated his 30-year milestone anniversary, picked up subtle references from his past collections from three decades, from zardosi to aari. Zardosi run gamut at Anju Modi’s showcase too. In contrast, Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna explored kaleidoscope-like movements with cutwork, crystals and tassels, via their ‘Fibonacci’ edit.
The trend: Waistband
While kamarbandh remains evergreen, couture week introduced further nuances to the timeless waist-cincher by way of unique materials, styles and finishes. From jaali-style kamarbandhs made up of cut-dana and crystals to matching versions made with the same cloth and even leather buckle belts, there was a roster of options to go with lehengas, anarkalis and even contemporary wear.
The trend: Lots of sparkle
As expected, KiraKira-friendly shine was front and centre this season. Falguni Shane Peacock, Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna, Anamika Khanna, Siddartha Tytler and Suneet Varma all provided a roster of sparkly ensembles for the bride who wants to shine (quite literally!) on her big day. From sequinned lehengas to saris doused in glass beads and crystals, high-octane pieces are forecasted to be a huge trend.
The trend: Bridal gowns
Red carpet-worthy gowns also made their mark on the runways, apt for the bride who wants a departure from her traditional pieces. Where Amit Aggarwal continued his innovation with fabrics to present sculptural gowns as part of ‘Pedesis Couture 2022’ outing, Anamika Khanna and Falguni Shane Peacock served their versions of sari-gowns via their The Couture Collection: An Experiment and Love Forever collections respectively. Stunning gowns were heavily seen in designer duo Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna’s ‘Fibonacci’ edit, from one-shoulder style creations to wear to your cocktail party to all-eyes-on-me gowns for a larger-than-life reception.
Also read:
Now you can shop Abhinav Mishra's new bridal couture line for your big day
Here’s how to bring the old world charm of Indian heritage to your bridal wardrobe
