As a bride, there are multiple earring designs that are probably fighting for your attention, but there is truth in the ‘old is gold’ adage. Take the jhumka for instance. Its origin traced back to south Indian traditional temple jewellery, where they were crafted for deities, with their silhouette mimicking the domes of Indian palaces and temples. Over the years, these earrings have seamlessly transitioned to mainstream must-haves for the bride as well as her crew. Vogue brings you a 101 from the experts if you’re looking to add their fail-safe charm to your wedding wardrobe.
What makes jhumkas a wedding must-have?
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What’s not to love about this timeless classic? They are dressy, they add movement to your overall repertoire, and they’re worthy of being passed down as family heirlooms. Sunil Datwani, managing director, Gehna Jewellers, considers jhumkas to be the hero of the bride’s ensemble. “Their traditional design perfectly complements a lehenga, and gives the look a royal touch,” he says.
What are the different types of jhumkas?
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There are several variations to choose from, with elegant jhumkis reminiscent of temple jewellery being the OG style. Predominantly gold, these are often spruced with rubies to add a hint of colour. Meenakari work, navratna stones and gemstone drops are other ways of bringing some hue into this style.
Sunita Shekhawat, founder, Sunita Shekhawat Jaipur, is in favour of designs that promise maximum wearability and versatility. “Statement open-setting jhumkas enhanced with gold, diamonds and polkis are must-haves since they balance modern and traditional aesthetics. Consider investing in detachable jhumkas as they can be used well after your wedding too.” Datwani gives his vote to chaandbali and hoop jhumkas. “Both these styles are extremely popular with modern brides. Wear it with a golden chain (or kanauti) extending to the hair for a touch of drama,” he adds.
If it’s a statement-making number you’re after, shoulder-dusting spiral (or jhalar) jhumkas or ones with tiered domes guarantee maximum impact. Due to their elaborate design, it’s best to skip the necklace and wear them with a maang tikka or passa. The karnphool or ear cuff jhumka is another head turner, made even more memorable with peacock-inspired motifs. And the Kashmiri jhumka, with the kanauti thrown over the ear lobe, plays with layers and proportions to enhance their visual appeal.
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As the millennial bride’s choices become increasingly global, jhumkas are undergoing a modern makeover to keep up with evolving sensibilities. Biren Vaidya, managing and creative director of jewellery brand Rose elaborates, “We retain the standard design but add a contemporary twist to this age-old style. Briolettes and precious gems can add to the delicacy of the jhumkas without stifling their movement.”
Which bridal outfits do jhumkas work best with?
While Shekhawat feels the studs from detachable jhumkas can easily be worn with a cocktail gown, Datwani advises wearing traditional gold jhumkas with a contemporary choker and maang tikka to get the best of both worlds. Recent celebrity brides have proven that there is a fitting jhumka for every wedding function on your calendar too.
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Deepika Padukone and Anushka Sharma both chose jhumkas for their wedding ceremonies—the former wore jadau jhumkas, while the latter’s were crafted with uncut diamonds, pale pink spinel and baroque Japanese cultured pearls.
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During Sonam Kapoor Ahuja’s wedding celebrations, a set of polki jhumkas complemented her all-white mehendi lehenga, with pearl chains extending to her hair for maximalist glam. The actor picked a pair for the main ceremony too.
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