“I have wanted to create fine jewellery for more than a decade now,” Masaba Gupta tells me. Not new to the world of jewels, she has previously offered non-precious ornaments with Amrapali. But Gupta believes, just like her brand, her consumers have also come of age, and now desire something more permanent. “Like many in India, I've done the rounds of buying things that I would wear on my wedding day—the investment pieces. Now I feel like I want jewellery that doesn't just lie in my locker; something that actually has a place in my everyday life.”
16 years ago, when Gupta founded her eponymous label, she blended her Indian and Antiguan influences with contemporary aesthetics—resulting in bold and playful ensembles. Much like the clothes she creates, this new 46-piece fine jewellery collection incorporates Gupta's signature style with a unique concoction of homegrown motifs and modern wearability. Think neckpieces—from traditional haars to modern chokers and haslis, elevated ear stacks, and bracelets adorned with meaningful affirmations. The launch campaign, aptly titled 'Identity Crisis,' featuring Madhu Sapre, Satyadeep Misra, Kripali Samdariya, Kirandeep Chahar and four-legged Twix, playfully explores House of Masaba's evolving vision while staying rooted in its core values.
This collaboration between Gupta and Tarang Arora, Creative Director and CEO of Jaipur-based Amrapali Jewels, champions inclusivity and artisanry. “The collection is gender-fluid, and every piece is for anyone who identifies with its spirit and appreciates the craftsmanship,” says Arora. With a diverse range of pieces, one-of-a-kind tourmalines, peridots, tanzanites, citrines, topazes, diamonds, pearls, rubies and emeralds conjure modern heirlooms that tell a unique story.
Ahead of the launch of House of Masaba x Amrapali Jewels, Gupta and Arora, talk to Vogue India about everything it took to make this collaboration come to life.
Vogue India: If you had to describe the collection in three words…
Masba Gupta: Provocative, museum-worthy, white-shirt-jewellery.
Tarang Arora: Daring, distinctive and refined.
VI: What was the initial spark for this collaboration? How did the idea come about?
MG: I reached out to Tarang and said, I have a bit of a wild idea. I am seeing a big shift in the way women are dressing up today. Especially women like myself, who want to wear the pieces they buy, daily. Tarang and I see India as a dynamic, interesting, and exciting country at the moment where the consumer interest has completely shifted—so we decided to take the plunge. I wanted to collaborate with them because they bring the know-how to my design expertise.
TA: This is our second collaboration with Masaba, and what we had in mind was to create a fine jewellery collection that celebrates heritage and embodies the undaunted spirit of Masaba. We wanted to craft pieces that speak to the modern woman—confident and unapologetic. This collection is the perfect blend of legacy-inspired craftsmanship and a cutting-edge, unbothered attitude.
VI: How did you approach the design process? What were your inspirations?
MG: I was pregnant and flying back and forth to Jaipur, where the stones were sourced. Towards the end, I had to stop travelling, so the stones came to me. We'd spread them out on the floor, placing them on designs. I was determined to finish the collection before giving birth. I was searching for this incredible deep green emerald, but it wasn't easy. You have to be mindful when working with gold too. You don't want to constantly be making changes.
My biggest inspirations were the mascots—the Nandi, the toffee, the camera, the palm. They're like talismans of protection for the brand and me. These mascots have evolved over the years: from prints to foil, then brass, and now, fine jewellery.
TA: It has been a journey of innovation and refinement. We wanted to create something that wasn’t just jewellery, but a story honouring our rich traditions. The inspiration came from the visual storytelling that Masaba is so known for, along with the brand's iconic symbols.
VI: What kind of an experience do you hope to create for the wearer?
MG: As a Gupta girl, I love beautiful, shiny things. But I also believe in investing in jewellery. When I buy a bag, I consider its resale value. I want pieces that last a lifetime, like my mom's gold and pearls. I wanted to create heirloom pieces with stories. I worked hard to get the polish right so that every piece looks gorgeous on Indian skin. I wanted to make something meaningful for my daughter, like the Matara bracelet I made for her first Diwali. These pieces are investments, but they also feel like fun, impulsive purchases.
TA: Our goal was to empower the wearer and challenge conventional norms. The idea is to experiment with heritage jewellery in a fresh and modern way, embracing individuality over tradition for tradition's sake. We want the wearer to appreciate the incredible thought and craftsmanship that has gone into each piece.
VI: Tell us about your favourite pieces from House of Masaba x Amrapali Jewels.
MG: We created this affirmation necklace with the words 'Nirbhau,' 'Nirvair,' and ‘Nimrata’—meaning without fear, without hate, and with love. I was inspired by a similar necklace at the Amrapali Museum. I wanted to create something for India that carried a powerful message for today, and what could be more relevant than these words? Made with the finest diamonds and beautiful enamel work, it's incredibly versatile.
TA: One of the pieces I particularly love is the Nandi earrings, which are one of a kind with a large Cabochon emerald. It’s something you can’t replicate. It’s a beautiful blend of the old and the new, showcasing the essence of our collaboration.
The collection is exclusively available for preview at House of Masaba’s flagship store in Mehrauli, New Delhi.
Also read:
The bridal secret this wedding season? Styling your jewellery pieces in unconventional ways
Sonam Kapoor Ahuja wore a light-weight House of Masaba sari in reverse pallu style
