Concealers are the MVP in your beauty arsenal. It can conceal, brighten, and contour all at once, so it's obvious why concealers rank high on the list of beauty products you cannot leave home without.
But even the best concealers can look cakey and tend to crease as the hours go by. “This can be due to several reasons,” says Jane Richardson, Global Artistry Director, NARS Cosmetics. “The main ones include using too much of or the wrong type of skincare during the skin prep stage, overestimating or not understanding what the problem is and applying too much concealer/ complexion products, and over powdering or not powdering at all.”
Ultimately, it boils down to application and setting techniques, and who better than the pros to guide us? Here’s how you can get crease-free coverage, according to the experts.
Prep your skin
“Proper skin preparation is crucial to create a smooth base for concealer application, reducing the chances of creasing,” explains Mehak Oberoi, Artist in Residence, Bobbi Brown India. Richardson says, "When I'm preparing the skin for makeup application, I first look to smooth the skin texture and then to hydrate.”
Here are some things you need to keep in mind when prepping your skin for the makeup to come, according to Richardson:
- Apply your skincare from the lightest formula to the heaviest, leaving a small amount of time between each application.
- When using eye cream, consider that even a pea-sized amount is too much.
- If the skin feels sticky after everything is applied, blot the excess with a tissue.
- Invest in primers to create a smooth, protective base and increase wear whilst working to bring hydration to the skin.
Richardson swears by the NARS Soft Matte Primer. “It’s water-gel texture and exclusive Climate Balancing Technology retains hydration in dry climates and absorbs excess moisture in humid ones.” Oberoi recommends the Bobbi Brown's Vitamin Enriched Face Base, 2-in-1 moisturising cream and makeup primer, followed by the Bobbi Brown Eye Base for the under-eye area. “These products not only moisturise but also create an ideal canvas for seamless corrector application and preventing it from settling into fine lines.”
Choose the right formula
“Choosing the right formula based on your skin type and concerns is crucial,” points Oberoi. “The right formula can enhance your features while addressing any skin issues. For example, if you have blemishes or uneven skin tone, opt for high-coverage formulas—cream or stick foundations provide excellent coverage. For dry skin, opt for creamy or liquid formulas with hydrating ingredients, and those with oily skin should choose matte formulas to control shine—I recommend Bobbi Brown's Skin Foundation Stick.”
Richardson uses different types of concealers on the face based on how she wants the skin to look. “I use NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer for a radiant finish or Soft Matte Complete Concealer for a matte finish,” she says. “Select a cream concealer if you are looking for more coverage and a liquid for when you want to have a more versatile option (signs of fatigue, fine lines, undereye bags, highlighting, contouring). Ultimately, having more than one formula in your makeup bag will give you the best chance of concealing what you see that day.”
Apply it the right way
From using a brush to blending it with your fingers, there are several ways to apply concealer, and there’s no right or wrong way – it's about preference. “I tend to use a brush for application because it allows me to build and blend,” says Richardson. “My kit essential is the NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer. I use a fluffy brush such as the NARS #10 for an even, smooth application and airbrush finish,” she says. For concealing zits, Richardson recommends “applying a light layer with a fluffy brush using a point concealer brush (NARS #40) to target the area, and then the fluffy brush to blend out the edge.”
Oberoi switches between brushes for precise coverage and sponges for excessive coverage. “Gently dab the concealer using a brush, like the Bobbi Brown Full Coverage Touch-Up Brush, starting from the inner corner and moving outward,” she says. “Avoid pulling or dragging the delicate skin to prevent creasing. The warmth of your fingers helps blend the product seamlessly into the skin, especially for cream or thicker concealers. Ensure you reach the inner corners and outer edges for a seamless blend.”
Build up as needed
To avoid a cakey base prone to creasing, start by applying a light layer of foundation. “Apply it only where you need it, and use concealer to get the coverage,” says Richardson. “You will use less product and avoid a cracked finish this way.” Oberoi suggests applying a small quantity to the targeted area to begin with. “Blend gently and assess the coverage before adding more if necessary,” she says. “This approach ensures you achieve the desired coverage without overloading your skin.” Richardson advises to “stop when you have concealed, not completely covered. There is a BIG difference!”
Set with it a setting powder
Setting powder is essential for making the skin look flawless, enhancing the makeup's staying power, and ensuring the complexion is shine-free where you want it. “Consider how you want the skin to look when selecting the powder. “For example, NARS Light Reflecting Setting Powders avoid creasing while The NARS Soft Matte Advanced Perfecting Powder mattifies where needed. I use loose powder to set the makeup initially and pressed powder for touching up – they can be used either way. “
Oberoi uses Bobbi Brown's Sheer Finish Pressed Powder, applying it with a fluffy brush. “Focus on areas prone to creasing, like under the eyes. This step locks in the concealer without adding excess product, guaranteeing a durable and crease-free finish.”
For those with breakouts or excess redness (rosacea), Richardson suggests taking the time to layer up the powder slowly and use more than expected. “The more you use it, the softer the area will look (surprising, but true),” she says. “Avoid light-reflecting powders as they will potentially highlight what you have tried to conceal."
With that said, here are some other all-time favourite concealers:
Laura Mercier Flawless Fusion Ultra Longwear Concealer
E.L.F. Hydrating Camo Concealer
Smashbox Halo Healthy 4-In-1 Perfecting Pen Concealer
Armani Beauty Luminous Silk Concealer
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Away Liquid Concealer
Born This Way Super Coverage Concealer
Rare Beauty Liquid Touch Brightening Concealer
Kay Beauty HD Liquid Concealer
Maybelline Instant Age Rewind Eraser
Anastasia Beverly Hills Magic Touch Concealer
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