Emily Ratajkowski closed the show, wearing a dress made using deadstock fabric
There’s a different mood in London this season. “We have to be respectful,” says Nensi Dojaka, alluding to the news of the Queen’s death on 8 September. Still, the former Fashion East star was a highlight on this season’s London schedule. From fresh takes on her signature dresses to the noteworthy new shoes, here’s everything to know about Nensi Dojaka's spring/summer 2023 show.
This article first appeared on vogue.co.uk
1/5It’s an evolution of previous seasons
Spring/summer 2023 is a “continuation of ideas”. Rather than choosing a muse or single source of inspiration, Dojaka has a constant stream of references on the back-burner, including nature photographs by Guido Mocafico and insights from a book on the French graphic designer Jean-Paul Goude, which she was given as a gift. This season, she has expanded on her signature floral and heart motifs, but in a measured way. “I want to take things slowly and don’t want to introduce too much at the same time,” she explains.
2/5Lace features for the first time
Last season, a pregnant Maggie Maurer stole the show in a sequined sheer dress that represented a new fabrication for Nensi. This time, she’s added lace to her line-up. “I’ve always wanted to do lace, but things take time,” she explains. “There are a lot of new things, new fabrics.” Denim and leopard-print satin also make appearances for spring/summer 2023, while she’s expanded her colour palette to feature pink (“a Barbiecore moment”), red, lilac, periwinkle and a rusty tone that she and the team have labelled “autumn blaze”.
3/5Shoes are on the agenda
Dojaka has dabbled in footwear before, when she created pieces especially for her shows, but this season she’s put them into production. Guests’ iPhones were out to capture the lattice leather kitten heels and flats, all scattered with crystals. “I love them,” she says with a smile. Keen to provide a full look for her customer, she’s included jewellery created in collaboration with Andrew Bunney (Paloma Elsesser wore one of his striking sterling silver chain necklaces on Nensi’s autumn/winter 2022 runway). Next on her list? Bags, but again: “It’s going to take time.”
4/5There’s a limited-edition dress
Nona Source, the deadstock resale company funded by LVMH, supplied Nensi with leftover fabrics from major fashion houses. With them, she made a dress – “the most sustainable thing in the collection” – which will be available in a limited-edition capacity when her pieces go on sale.
5/5All eyes were on the cast
Nensi wanted to show a bigger spectrum of her work this season, and assembled a stellar cast of models on which to do so. Fashion favourites Jill Kortleve, Paloma Elsesser, Sacha Quenby, Vittoria Ceretti and Louise Roberts all walked in the show, while Emily Ratajkowski closed wearing the deadstock dress.
